My Kaboodle

Don't forget to check out my Amazon wishlist ... most of my goodies are on there. Report Spam

When it comes to clothing, I'm extremely picky, but entirely predictable. In general, I really like houndstooth checks and glen plaid; I am also a big fan of windowpanes and tartans ("our" tartan is "lanark"). I am generally NOT a fan of stripes. I also like solids, of course, if they are in earthtones or other conservative colors, such as black, navy, darker grays, or darker browns. I am generally not a fan of lighter khaki shades. I prefer fabrics with a texture, especially for solids ... i.e. a herringbone weave. This is also the exception to my no-stripes rule: stripes that are expressed in the weave of the fabric (like alternating herringbones), but not explicitly in color, are good. I love Harris Tweed, any pattern/color they make, and will wear and love anything made of the stuff... it is the classiest of the classy ;)With regards to ties: I wear a tie everyday. I prefer ties that are woven silk, i.e. the pattern is woven in. I am not a fan of polyester ties or printed silk. I have no strong preference for or against "skinny" ties. I do not wear knit ties. I do prefer an extra-long tie, but can wear a regular length one, as long as the fabric is not extremely thick. I generally wear a half-windsor or full-windsor knot, depending on the thickness of the tie. I am not a fan of stripes or floral patterns, but prefer smaller geometric or traditional patterns, and the occasional paisley. I am especially a fan of monochromatic (black, black/gray, black/white) ties. I won't wear ties with logos (e.g. tobasco) or really crazy prints (e.g. Jerry Garcia), but I will wear ties that are loud, in a conservative way ;) I've been wanting to try out a tweed tie, as well as a worsted wool tie; tartans are sadly underrepresented in my tie arsenal. I have no opinion on cotton ties, yet ... With regards to pants: I wear slacks to work, not (normally) khakis/chinos. I like solids, especially with a patterned/textured weave, windowpane, glen plaid or houndstooth (subdued). Black, navy, darker browns, charcoal (or darker) gray; I'm not a fan of very light pants, especially the lighter khaki colors. I don't like shiny pants; I try to find "washable wool" pants, they are typically maybe 20% wool, balance polyester; they just need to "look like" wool. I even have some 100% polyester ones that look just like wool (Stafford makes some good ones). Of course, real wool slacks that are dry-clean-only are fine, too. Polyester pants that must be dry cleaned are offensive. (Why would you pay just as much for polyester, and pay to have it dry cleaned, when, for the same money, you could have real wool?) I strongly prefer flat-front (as opposed to pleats), french fly (pretty much ubiquitous), and 1" to 1.5" cuffs (though, to be fair, it's hard to find flat front pants with cuffs ... I have and like pants with pleats, and flat fronts without cuffs). I wear a 40x30 (40" waist, 30" inseam). I prefer true button braces, but that's generally something I'll have to have done, or do myself (supposedly our sewing machine can do it on autopilot, I just have to figure out how).With regards to shirts: I prefer 100% cotton; cotton poly blends which are marketed as "stain resistant," "wrinkle resistant", and "no iron" are none of the above, but they are tougher to iron well. Being a realist, I often buy shirts with up to 20% polyester, since the cuffs, collars, and other things I like mean I have fewer choices. I have never work linen, but would like to give it a try. I prefer heavier, coarser fabrics to the high threadcount luxury fabrics; generally, the shirts I like the most are "broadcloths", some are oxfords, some are royal oxfords. I prefer a fabric with a texture/pattern woven into it, like a herringbone or even just a weft/warp disparity. I prefer a stiffer, slightly heavier fabric; I am not a fan at all of pinpoints, poplins, and especially not sateens. (Shirts should also not be shiny or glossy). I prefer points, but readily substitute spreads or tabs, with single or double button collars, as long as they have stay/stiffener pockets. I avoid sewn in stiffeners, and I do NOT wear button down collars (to work or with a tie). I do not wear knit shirts/polos. I prefer barrel collars, preferably double button (when they can be found), ideally a mitred/notched/angled double button barrel cuff, with placket buttons. I do not wear french cuffs. I don't care whether they have a separate or attached, or even covered placket, or whether they are single or double pleated (though I generally do need pleats of some type), or what kind of yoke. I don't like shirts with collars of a different color than the shirt (i.e. blue shirt with white collar, Donald Trump style). I don't care if the shirt has pockets or not, or what style, as long as they are not covered (i.e. as long as it is a dress shirt).So, my ideal shirt is: 100% cotton broadcloth, points with stiffener pockets, double button mitred barrel cuffs w/ buttoned sleeve plackets, any type of yoke, any type of pleats, any type of placket.As far as colors, I'll wear pretty much anything; white, any shade of blue, green, violets (esp. darker), darker reds, yellow, anything with a houndstooth or glen plaid pattern, most windowpane patterns, some checked patterns, but not so much oranges, other plaids, pinks.I wear a 16 1/2" x 34; Under no circumstances can I get away with less than a 34" sleeve, and will probably have trouble with sleeves longer than 36". I usually buy 16 1/2" or 17", sometimes 16" if it is a really awsome shirt for cheap, but always 34-35" sleeve. I can easily wear a 17" neck, and for a shirt that is cut generously, I can wear a 16" neck. (I have found a couple of shirts that are 16" that I really loved, and have gotten away with it all but once). A 16 1/2" is a "Large" by the way; but all "Larges" don't necessarily have 34-35" sleeves (they more typically have 32-33" sleeves).With regards to winter coats: I technically wear a 48R, but in winter coats, I tend to go a little bigger, so I can easily wear a suit or blazer underneath. Felted wool is good, tweed is better, again, Harris Tweed is a sure winner (but then you're likely looking at $1000+ for the coat, and frankly, I'd be to scared to wear something that expensive). Prefer solid black, dark brown, or dark gray, or an interesting patterned tweed, houndstooth, glen plaid, or even herringbone. I have a 3/4 Pea Coat, and a 3/4 brown coat already (both felted), A schnazzier 3/4 would always be nice (i.e. a tweed, or something patterned), but what I really need is a bridge coat (ideally a plain, black felted wool, no frills, double breasted bridge coat, maybe with a zip-out liner.)With regards to sportscoats/blazers: I usually wear a 48R, but my coats generally require alteration (sleeves), and the sizing variance amongst manufacturers is much greater for coats than for shirts/pants. I just wouldn't go there. But: I prefer 100% wool; worsted is fine, tweed is much much better, Harris Tweed is the best by far. If it's Harris Tweed, any color or pattern, I'll love it ... but if it's tweed of any variety (i.e. not worsted), I'll have a hard time finding someone who can competently alter it. Houndstooth, glen plaid, or windowpane are sure bets. I also like the less formal cotton sportscoats. I am not a fan of shiny buttons.With regards to suits: since there's a coat involved, there'll be alterations required, so I wouldn't go there. But: I prefer 3 button three-piece in solids (dark navy, black, dark/charcoal gray), windowpane, or possibly pinstripe, worsted wool, or double breasted, solid. Single vents, french fly, braces. Worsted wool, with little or no polyester content; or possibly the Brooks Brothers suits that are mostly wool, with some spandex and who knows what, that are "wrinkle free" and inexpensive.With regards to other stuff: I prefer over the calf socks. I have traditionally only worn 100% cotton, but have recently become enamored of the nylon dress socks, and have not had the problems I anticipated with them based on my experiences with acrylic. My feet tend to get too warm, so I avoid thick socks. I prefer woven boxers, with a button fly.I *don't* wear leather, except for belt and shoes. I won't wear coats, shirts, or sweaters with leather patches on the sleeves, for instance.I *don't* wear fur, or other products that require the killing or mistreatment of animals, unless there is no alternative. Wool does not, AFAIK, result in the mistreatment of animals. So, I'll wear leather belts and shoes, because there really is no alternative (though I buy cotton/nylon belts when I find ones that will work with slacks).I generally don't wear silk except for items where there is no real substitute, which means pretty much ties. (silk is produced in an arguably cruel manner, not yet sure how I feel about that).I don't wear gloves.I don't generally wear sweaters.Acrylic (socks, sweaters, etc.) irritates my skin.I have had limited experience with wool socks, but it wasn't good.I don't wear a scarf, but I've never owned one, either.In general, I am always needing ties, and shirts, and slacks.One specific idea:Wool ties, esp wool tartan ties and tweed ties, e.g. from http://www.scotweb.co.uk (you really can't go wrong).There are so many, I didn't want to add them all to my wishlist :) Report Spam