See this at: mr2oc.com| Added on 12/16/09

The MR2OC also known as the MR2 Owners Club Message Board, partnered with Club MR2, we are the largest Toyota MR2 community on the internet, With over 28,000 registered members, we can help you with any and all Toyota MR2 questions and problems.

The MR2OC also known as the MR2 Owners Club Message Board, partnered with Club MR2, we are the largest Toyota MR2 community on the internet, With over 28,000 registered members, we can help you with any and all Toyota MR2 questions and problems. See less

See this at: plxdevices.com| Added on 11/10/09

The PLX Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Module accurately measures the precise wideband air fuel ratio (AFR) of any internal combustion engine. Up to 32 Sensor Modules can be daisy chained together in the PLX iMFD system. This Sensor Module can also be used as... See more

The PLX Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Module accurately measures the precise wideband air fuel ratio (AFR) of any internal combustion engine. Up to 32 Sensor Modules can be daisy chained together in the PLX iMFD system. This Sensor Module can also be used as a stand alone unit capable of interfacing with 3rd party hardware.Works with gasoline, bio diesel, ethanol, methanol, E85, LPG, and CNG. See less

See this at: isettatech.com| Added on 10/27/09

Over the past several years, we've had a chance to meet and deal with a number of folks that provide services that can help get your Isetta back on the road. The following is a list of competent vendors that have the expertise to help you out. If you... See more

Over the past several years, we've had a chance to meet and deal with a number of folks that provide services that can help get your Isetta back on the road. The following is a list of competent vendors that have the expertise to help you out. If you have a vendor that you'd like to recommend, please let us know via our Feedback link so we can pass it along. Revised July 2009 CLASSIC AUTO WORKS: Mike Shambarger has been at it a long time. He's done everything from classic cars to street rods to pro street machines to Isettas. He never expected to have not one, but two, Isettas get layed on him at the same time ... ours and Robert Mace's. CAW did everything ranging from minor patch panel work on our car to major patch panel work and scratch fabrication all the way around on Robert's car on top of a whole new floor board. The finished products were a knockout! Mike and his guys shoot Glasurit paints and epoxy sealers. He also uses 3M RockerSchutz undercoating and sound deadener upon... See less

See this at: csgnetwork.com| Added on 10/26/09

This circuit is supplied as a hobby project. This project circuit is designed to give an automobile's interior lights a fading delay before turning off. When the car door is open, the normally open car door contact switch is open and on. By design,... See more

This circuit is supplied as a hobby project. This project circuit is designed to give an automobile's interior lights a fading delay before turning off. When the car door is open, the normally open car door contact switch is open and on. By design, that charges the 22uF capacitor fully. (That capacitor can be varied slightly for various reason.) The 741 opamp IC behaves as a voltage follower and the output from it is the same as the voltage across the capacitor, which is about 12 to 13.8 volts when the capacitor is fully charged, depending on the alternator's output. Due to a high voltage at the output of the IC, the transistor saturates, turning the bulb on to full brightness by supplying full voltage. In the opposite state, the door switch is pushed in, closed, turning the power off. When the switch is in the off position, the capacitor starts discharging slowly through VR1 and the 10K resistor. The residual voltage across it decreases slowly. The output of IC 741 also the voltage... See less

See this at: bigbluesaw.com| Added on 10/25/09

We use waterjet machining and CNC to machine any part you can dream up. Our online quoting system allows you to make parts you design from acrylic plastic, polycarbonate, steel and aluminum.

We use waterjet machining and CNC to machine any part you can dream up. Our online quoting system allows you to make parts you design from acrylic plastic, polycarbonate, steel and aluminum. See less

Highlights: Price, Original Raw Finish $95.70 $19.14 $9.57 $1.91 $1.37 $1.07

See this at: instructables.com| Added on 10/21/09

How to Make LED - Instructables search Instructables - Page 6

See this at: koracing.net| Added on 10/17/09

These instructions are complete and accurate to the best of my knowledge, if you notice any inaccuracies, please let me know by emailing me at techinfo@koracing.net. Note: What you do to your car is your business, and you take full reponsibility for... See more

These instructions are complete and accurate to the best of my knowledge, if you notice any inaccuracies, please let me know by emailing me at techinfo@koracing.net. Note: What you do to your car is your business, and you take full reponsibility for your own actions. KO Racing and Kris Osheim cannot be held legally liable for any problems associated with the use of these directions. Parts needed: Manual steering rack Manual steering column/Ujoint Manual Steering Tie Rods Metal clamps for rubber boots on steering rack. (or zip ties) See less

See this at: halfspec.com| Added on 10/16/09

Here is the link I used to purchase the majority of the LEDs I used (360 degree backlights especially) http://www.quickar.com/discrete.php?session=L2p0KIHR My resistance values correspond to the following product codes from quickar: mhinvbl - Blue... See more

Here is the link I used to purchase the majority of the LEDs I used (360 degree backlights especially) http://www.quickar.com/discrete.php?session=L2p0KIHR My resistance values correspond to the following product codes from quickar: mhinvbl - Blue inverted 360 degree LED mh3tsbl - Blue 3mm superbright LED mhinvrd - Red inverted 360 degree LED mh3tsrd - Red 3mm superbright LED If you use different LEDs your resistance values WILL change. The ashtray / ignition ring lights are #74 based LEDs and can be purchased here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=3117353.22395&next=50 They are listed as “74 Wedge Base LED bulb” and are $1.19 a pop. They simply lock into the stock mr2 light sockets. To see what my work used to look like click here I will still provide the stock clock acrylic replacements. I have them available in red and blue for $5.50 shipped each. If you are interested, please email me at halfspec@gmail.com See less

See this at: mr2.noegruts.com| Added on 10/11/09

* Remove the T-Top from the car and place it on a flat, clean surface. I placed it on an old blanket to avoid scratching the glass. * Remove the screw from each side of the T-Top which attach the locking mechanism cover. See Photo 3. * Work a clean... See more

* Remove the T-Top from the car and place it on a flat, clean surface. I placed it on an old blanket to avoid scratching the glass. * Remove the screw from each side of the T-Top which attach the locking mechanism cover. See Photo 3. * Work a clean rag behind the locking handle and gently pull each end back and forth until the spring clip pops out. See Photo 4 for the direction you need to work the cloth. Place the handle and clip in a safe place. Pull the knob off the sliding catch and keep it safe also. * Make sure the locking mechanism is in its retracted (remove) position, then gently lift the cover over the ends of the locking rods and insert your flat bladed screwdriver to help pop the cover out of the two clips that now attach it to the locking mechanism. Photo 6 shows the T-Top with the cover removed and points out the location of the two clips. Be careful not to break the clips. * Remove the old rod guide. It is not fixed in place by anything, so just pull it off the rod. See... See less

See this at: myworld.ebay.com| Added on 10/09/09

We have been serving the South Florida Area for over 40 years combined.In that time we have created the largest supply of New and Reman suspension and steering parts in the South Eastern United States. We do Rack and Pinions, CV axles, power steering... See more

We have been serving the South Florida Area for over 40 years combined.In that time we have created the largest supply of New and Reman suspension and steering parts in the South Eastern United States. We do Rack and Pinions, CV axles, power steering pumps, ball joints, suspension links,ties rods.. See less

See this at: powersteeringpros.co...| Added on 10/09/09

Now for the first time, the public has access to the highest quality boxes and racks, products that only dealers previously had!Power Steering Pros now offers straight to the public racks, boxes and pumps at the prices well below list. Why compromise... See more

Now for the first time, the public has access to the highest quality boxes and racks, products that only dealers previously had!Power Steering Pros now offers straight to the public racks, boxes and pumps at the prices well below list. Why compromise on quality, when we have the highest quality available at wholesale prices. All of the parts in our catalog are available and good in stock. If you can't find it, give us a call on our toll free line and we can help you out. Highest quality and the best prices. Changing these parts with high quality replacements has never been more important. See less

See this at: stephenmason.com| Added on 09/21/09

This is a straightforward, but time-consuming job. It requires no special tools but is labor-intensive, so it's a good job for the DIY-er looking to save some money. A new wiring harness runs ~ $150 and will probably cost a few hours of labor to... See more

This is a straightforward, but time-consuming job. It requires no special tools but is labor-intensive, so it's a good job for the DIY-er looking to save some money. A new wiring harness runs ~ $150 and will probably cost a few hours of labor to repair at the dealer. If you do it yourself you're only out time and a few cents of consumables (tape, short bits of wire). Your car will be drivable while you do the repair. I would allow a half-day to do it, but it will go much faster if you've removed the door panel before. Note that this job requires a lot of contorting into the driver's side foot well to get access to various bits. Before you begin, slide the seat all the way back, recline it, and tilt the steering wheel up as well to give yourself maximum room. It's also helpful to get some pads or towels to lay across the door sill so the assorted edges don't dig into your back. Roll the window up (if you can) before taking everything apart. This way if it start's raining and you don't... See less

See this at: carchemistry.com| Added on 09/14/09

1. The insert as supplied does not have the plug or restrictor installed. To reduce overall sound volume (noise) these parts may be tack welded on. Place the restrictor (the plug with a hole predrilled) at the front of the pipe. The solid plug is... See more

1. The insert as supplied does not have the plug or restrictor installed. To reduce overall sound volume (noise) these parts may be tack welded on. Place the restrictor (the plug with a hole predrilled) at the front of the pipe. The solid plug is supplied so that you may drill a smaller hole and create a custom restrictor, if desired. You will only use one or the other. This allows you to customize the sound. DO NOT use a solid plug, a hole must exist to allow exhaust flow through the center. For RACE applications do not run either the plug or restrictor. Stainless steel packing is available for quieter applications for street use. Call for details. | 2. The listed diameter of the insert is based on the outside diameter (OD) of the tube they are designed to fit in. Depending on the actual inside diameter (ID) of the tube, which varies based on gauge and manufacturer, the insert may be; a loose fit, a tight fit or will be a little large. If the insert will not fit in the tube it will be... See less

See this at: auberins.com| Added on 08/03/09

* Compact size, 1/32 DIN that is only 24x48x75mm (0.95 x 1.89 x3” ) * Powered by 12 (24) V DC or AC. * Artificial intelligence enhanced PID algorithm provides precise control on difficult heating system. * Auto-tune function can find the best PID... See more

* Compact size, 1/32 DIN that is only 24x48x75mm (0.95 x 1.89 x3” ) * Powered by 12 (24) V DC or AC. * Artificial intelligence enhanced PID algorithm provides precise control on difficult heating system. * Auto-tune function can find the best PID parameter automatically. * On/Off control mode for fan, refrigerator, motor and solenoid valve control (New) * Limit control mode for safety protection and special applications (New) * Support 10 different types of commonly used temperature sensor inputs. * Display temperature in either Fahrenheit or Celsius. * 90-days warranty See less

Highlights: Starting at: $36.95

See this at: autospeed.com| Added on 08/03/09

The simplest automotive application is to turn off a warning light when the temperature reaches a certain level. For example, to illuminate a red warning on the dash when the engine oil temperature is still low - all engines should be warmed-up... See more

The simplest automotive application is to turn off a warning light when the temperature reaches a certain level. For example, to illuminate a red warning on the dash when the engine oil temperature is still low - all engines should be warmed-up before they are driven hard, and the coolant temp gauge doesn't always reflect oil temp. In this application, either an iron or frypan thermostat is ideal. Because it won't matter if the warning light flickers a little before turning off, it doesn't need to be a snap-action thermostat - in fact, it's probably useful to use a non snap-action design because you can then see that the oil is nearly up to temperature. The first step is to disassemble the frypan controller. Once you have opened-up the plastic housing (which may require breaking it as you pry it apart) you should be left with a thermostat assembly. There are three wiring connections - an earth to the body of the thermostat and two connections to the switch contacts. The earth is no... See less

See this at: firstfives.org| Added on 08/01/09

Vacuum Pump - These things are fairly expensive. Stand alone units start in the $250 range. There are air driven ones available for about $50, but you need a compressor capable of delivering 80-100 psi continuously for over half an hour. This burns... See more

Vacuum Pump - These things are fairly expensive. Stand alone units start in the $250 range. There are air driven ones available for about $50, but you need a compressor capable of delivering 80-100 psi continuously for over half an hour. This burns up tons of electricity and is very noisy. I was able to borrow the one pictured below. You may be able to rent one. See less

See this at: store.theretrofitsou...| Added on 07/30/09

Our complete low beam or bi-xenon projector headlight retrofit kits are bundled in a number of different ways to offer something for almost every budget. From the basic "Stage I" kits to the fully accessorized "Stage III" kits, our customers can get... See more

Our complete low beam or bi-xenon projector headlight retrofit kits are bundled in a number of different ways to offer something for almost every budget. From the basic "Stage I" kits to the fully accessorized "Stage III" kits, our customers can get all the parts they need in a convenient complete package at a fairly discounted price. Dont see exactly what your looking for? We will gladly bundle any combination of available parts for you. See less

See this at: hotrodders.com| Added on 05/27/09

Rust defender is made by Clausen, http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/clpr1.html http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/aut...es/clausen.html I think they may have discontinued the rust defender as I see it not being advertised, instead they have... See more

Rust defender is made by Clausen, http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/clpr1.html http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/aut...es/clausen.html I think they may have discontinued the rust defender as I see it not being advertised, instead they have the newer All-U-Need polyester primer. I haven't tried that one yet. There's many more options out there in polyester primer, Evercoat, Marson, Transtar, U-pol, Sikkens, and more. Evercoat works fine for me, I like the Featherfill G2 and also slicksand-both work fine. See less

See this at: hotrodders.com| Added on 05/27/09

Just want to pass on what I have read on different forums. For us amateurs like myself, if the pros see a mistake here, please feel free to correct me. I will mention three sprayable body fillers here, there are more. 1. Featherfill by evercoat 2.... See more

Just want to pass on what I have read on different forums. For us amateurs like myself, if the pros see a mistake here, please feel free to correct me. I will mention three sprayable body fillers here, there are more. 1. Featherfill by evercoat 2. Slicksand by evercoat, slicksand kind of replaced featherfill as far popularity 3. Z-chrome by Clausen Sprayable body filler is also called, Polyester Primer Surfacer. Its a two part, Or 2k, as in two componets, it has a hardener or catalyst, or something mixed with it. Its not a single component, as in one part. They all have a resin and talc in them, so there not waterproof, only waterproof if sealed under and over by another product. So we have sprayable body filler, versus the body filler in a can that we call mud or bondo, that also has a hardener in a little tube that we squeeze out in a ribbon, and mix it in with a putty knife or spreader. Why use a sprayable body filler. If you have several dents along the side of your car, you fill... See less

See this at: stage8.com| Added on 05/26/09

We solve critical joint challenges. Our engineers design specific solutions for just about any critical bolted joint needing a mechanical means of securing items to one another. Vibration, intense heat or cold and shock account for most fastener... See more

We solve critical joint challenges. Our engineers design specific solutions for just about any critical bolted joint needing a mechanical means of securing items to one another. Vibration, intense heat or cold and shock account for most fastener failures. Stage 8 Locking Fasteners succeed in these environments and are guaranteed to stay tight. See less

See this at: mrtwo.net| Added on 05/25/09

Study the pictures below, and at the bottom of this page to get familiar with the parts and their locations. Picture #1, view from behind the Oil Cooler and HFH with Exaust Manifold missing, note the full oil cooler assembly (both top and bottom),... See more

Study the pictures below, and at the bottom of this page to get familiar with the parts and their locations. Picture #1, view from behind the Oil Cooler and HFH with Exaust Manifold missing, note the full oil cooler assembly (both top and bottom), with old hose from hell connected. Also note the oil dipstick tube and the spot that it plugs into the block. Picture #2 and 3, here you can see where the HFHOE connects to the Oil Cooler Top. The wrench in the picture is connected by a 30mm Socket to the Relief Valve. Picture #4, you can see the HFH next to the oil cooler. Note that the oil cooler top is not connected. You can clearly see the 4 bolts that hold the oil cooler bottom to the engine block. Pictures #5 and 6, show the relation of the HFH and the exaust manifold. Note that the Turbo and Down Pipe are not connected. Picture #7 Shows the view you would have looking from above. The Oil Cooler and general location of the HFH under the exaust manifold is highlighted. Note that the... See less

See this at: mr2oc.com| Added on 05/21/09

I bought this 91na with a turbo swap in may. THEN it had 550 injectors, Blitz Nur Spec exhaust, stock catalytic converter, NEO AFC, blitz EBC, turbo timer, walboro fuel pump, HKS air filter, and a hks bov. Then it got 22mpg when driving conservative... See more

I bought this 91na with a turbo swap in may. THEN it had 550 injectors, Blitz Nur Spec exhaust, stock catalytic converter, NEO AFC, blitz EBC, turbo timer, walboro fuel pump, HKS air filter, and a hks bov. Then it got 22mpg when driving conservative and not boosting except maybe 5psi for a couple seconds in 5th on the interstate. Also this is assuming I have a 14 gallon fuel tank since the car is an NA chassis. Now since then, it now has 440 injectors, Greddy SP exhaust, gutted cat (putting in Berk DP soon), stock BOV and still has the hks air filter, blitz EBC, turbo timer, and walboro. Now it gets 18mpg driving the same way. It also has a brand new air filter element, brand new distributor cap, brand new distributor rotor, and about 1 year old spark plug wires. I pulled the valve cover today to check the valve timing and it is correct. The ignition timing is 10* base timing as it should be. I've checked for boost leaks and there are none. I have opened the MAF sensor and it was... See less

See this at: mr2oc.com| Added on 05/21/09

I took my car to the garage and he said he did a compression test and got 120-120-125-125 My motor only has 10k miles on it and has weisco forged pistons bored .020 over. The car doesnt stay running as i think timing skipped a tooth, and he probably... See more

I took my car to the garage and he said he did a compression test and got 120-120-125-125 My motor only has 10k miles on it and has weisco forged pistons bored .020 over. The car doesnt stay running as i think timing skipped a tooth, and he probably did the compression test when the car was cold and not warmed up properly. Would that result in lower number like he got? Also with forged pistons, and being bored will that cause lower numbers? Thanks See less

See this at: mr2oc.com| Added on 05/21/09

After reading this thread: http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=182309 amoung MANY others just like it (searched "compression test" and had well over 500 search results), I came to the conclusion that although some people know "how" to perform the test,... See more

After reading this thread: http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=182309 amoung MANY others just like it (searched "compression test" and had well over 500 search results), I came to the conclusion that although some people know "how" to perform the test, they don't know what it means and on the other hand some people just have no idea what they are doing. So I decided to open this thread, which is completely open for suggestion's to newb's performing the test(s) or just reading up on the topic. (The following information can be found here: http://www.lcengineering.com/techno...w&catid=1&id=47, mind you the company lcengineering specializes in the ever so popular toyota 20R and 22R motors found in early toyota pickup's and corolla's.) So, first off, Compression Testing vs. Leak Down Testing: There has been great confusion encountered regarding compression tests and leak down tests. A compression test is typically done prior to a leak down test and is an easy way to determine the internal... See less