Drill and bits up to 3/8" Parts needed: Pinion snubber (came with locknut) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9101G/ 3/8" x 2" fender washers Installation: 1. Remove the rear bins. 2. Drill a 3/8" hole in the dimpled area on...
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Drill and bits up to 3/8" Parts needed: Pinion snubber (came with locknut) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9101G/ 3/8" x 2" fender washers Installation: 1. Remove the rear bins. 2. Drill a 3/8" hole in the dimpled area on the tunnel. The dimple is underneath the sound deadening mat in between the recessed bin areas. 3. Jack up the car enough to comfortably work under the diff area. Be safe and use jack stands. You'll need to use the jack to assist in adjusting snubber preload later; so you can't skip this. 4. Loosen the front mounts on the rear subframe. Only loosen the large nuts attaching the subframe to the mount bracket. Do not loosen mount bracket from the body. These mounts are on either side of the body just in front of the rear wheel well. 5. Remove the lower bolt from the rear link. 6. Install the pinion snubber in the hole you drilled earlier. It should be visible above the front differential mount area right in between the parking brake cables. Pull down on the front of the differential housing to create clearance to install the snubber. 7. Reinstall the bottom bolt in the sub-link. 8. Jack up the subframe to its normal position. 9. Check to make sure that your snubber is slightly preloaded. If there is a gap, lower the subframe, the revert back to step 5. Add fender washers in between the snubber and bottom of the body to space it out. I added two fender 3/8" x 2" fender washers to mine to get the preload just where I wanted. 10. Tighten up the pinion snubber. I used another fender washer up top as well to tighten on a flat surface. 11. Tighten the subframe nuts to 74-87 ft/lbs. 12. Tighten the sub-link nut to 54-69 ft/lbs. 13. Install the rear bins. 14. Lower the car off of the jacks. 14. Go test drive and enjoy your non-wheel hopping, non-clunking rear end! Josh
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