There are many different methods of cutting fabrics for sewing. While we each have a favorite method, it is extremely important to be aware of all of the techniques and their special applications. Custom work means adapting to...
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There are many different methods of cutting fabrics for sewing. While we each have a favorite method, it is extremely important to be aware of all of the techniques and their special applications. Custom work means adapting to different patterns, designs and fabrics. This adaptability must extend to the very first step of the fabrication process, cutting the fabric. Before we can discuss cutting techniques, it is important to understand the construction of fabrics. We rarely deal with knit or stretchy fabrics, so the primary focus here will be on woven fabrics. The process of weaving involves stretching the warp threads, the vertical threads, tight. The weft or woof are the filling threads which run horizontally and are used to bind the warp threads on the ends to create the selvage. The warp and weft lines of the fabric are referred to as grain lines or straight of grain. The weaving process, when done properly, should produce a fabric length which is perfectly squared - the warp and weft are perpendicular to each other. However, the action of rolling the fabric lengths through the dying, printing and sealing processes often pull the fabric out of square. The machines pull just a bit harder on one side than the other thereby pulling one end of the weft threads ahead faster than the other end. The fabric is not square. Do not confuse straight of grain with blocking/squaring. The warp and weft lines are straight of grain. They can be pulled out of alignment during processing causing the fabric to be out of square. The fabric can be cut along the grain line and squared using a blocking technique. However, when the pattern is printed on the fabric while it is out of square, we say the pattern is printed off the grain line. You can cut the fabric along the grain line and square it, but the pattern on the fabric will always be off grain. The techniques for cutting fabric listed below begin with cutting following the straight of grain. This is always the best method to follow whenever possible because the fabrics themselves try to revert to straight of grain when hanging. However, subsequent techniques help you adapt to patterns on the fabric which are printed off square.
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