By: John Ross 2005.02.23 Read almost anything about Lisbon and the word "decadent" will crop up in the first couple of lines. "Melancholy" is just as inevitable and "elegant" will probably appear a little further on. Spain and...
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By: John Ross 2005.02.23 Read almost anything about Lisbon and the word "decadent" will crop up in the first couple of lines. "Melancholy" is just as inevitable and "elegant" will probably appear a little further on. Spain and Portugal for Visitors' lexical contribution would be "agreeably seedy." In fact, Lisbon is one of the most likeable places in Europe. The determinant factor in Lisbon's character was the massive earthquake of 1755. Before this, the wealth passing through from Portugal's colonies had made it one of the richest cities in the world. The earthquake, the epicentre of which was in the middle of the Atlantic, affected a great many countries, but the destruction was especially shocking in opulent Lisbon. The quake struck on the morning of November 1st, All Saint's Day, with most of the population at church. The tsunami (tidal wave) which followed the earthquake swept away many who had taken refuge on the waterfront or aboard ships. The city was rebuilt in neoclassical style, the streets being laid out geometrically. Only a few areas such as the Alfama district and the Belém suburb remained unaltered. The combination of this low-rise neoclassical style and the generally small scale of the city, with trams trundling noisily along, create the impression of a rather provincial, uncosmopolitan place. This is misleading. To a large extent, Lisbon has long been a city of immigrants - and recent influxes from former colonies have had their effect. For one thing, it is now arguably the best place in Europe to hear African music.
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