The two best Japanese sushi restaurants in America are not in New York or Beverly Hills. They are on Ventura Boulevard, in the San Fernando Valley. A late-night TV writer I know flies out from NYC to Los Angeles specifically to...
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The two best Japanese sushi restaurants in America are not in New York or Beverly Hills. They are on Ventura Boulevard, in the San Fernando Valley. A late-night TV writer I know flies out from NYC to Los Angeles specifically to get his sushi fix, because he knows what true foodies know; the second place in the world where seafood chefs get to pick from the day's best catch is Los Angeles (the first is Japan, of course). It follows, then, that the best sushi restaurants in the country are in Southern California. But while Matsuhisa and Nobu get the most buzz -- and, run by Nobu Matsuhisa, they are outstanding -- the TV writer follows others in the know right past Beverly Hills and Hollywood, and into the Valley. Katsu-ya, at 16542 Ventura Blvd in Encino, looks unimposing, to say the least. Who would expect that one of the best Japanese restaurants in the country would be found in a slightly run-down strip mall, next to a Curves gym? Don't let the unglamorous setting deter you. Inside, you'll find intimate tables and a clean, no-nonsense sushi bar. I strongly recommend trying the toro and the crispy spicy tuna roll. If, like the aforementioned TV writer, you are a sushi aficionado, you will also consider them worth flying 3,000 miles for! Rather than Asian music, this slightly unconventional restaurant pipes in soft rock such as the Beatles and Paul Simon. My other favorite Japanese restaurant, Kazu Sushi, is also in the Valley, at 11440 Ventura Blvd, Studio City. Unlike Katsu-ya, the interior is absolutely lovely, with a minimalist design, highly lacquered sushi bar and feng-shui placement of small Japanese statues. The tuna carpaccio and toro tartare are heaven. For the diner that doesn't consider spicy tuna rolls and California rolls a prerequisite of every sushi meal, try the omakase. It means, "chef's choice," and like the name implies, the chef will create many small dishes presented one at a time. A culinary surprise, every five minutes, is a both a treat and a luxury not to be missed. Katsu-ya Sushi has larger portions than I've come to expect, while Kazu Sushi's are somewhat smaller. Both restaurants are relatively inexpensive, especially compared to Urasawa, that $500-a-head place on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. For sightseers and the fans of popular culture, there is another important difference. At Nobu, Matsuhita and Urasawa, B- and C-level stars often come to be photographed by the paparazzi. The A-list stars, who don't need the publicity and just want to enjoy the country's best sushi, dine in peace at Katsu-ya and Kazu Sushi. Last, all sushi restaurants have many entrees that are naturally low-carb and heart-healthy. Related, on Suite 101: The Maui Prince Kobe Beef Omakase, the Sushi Chef's Choice Asian Vegetarian Cooking Copyright 2006 Jennifer Miner and Suite 101. All rights reserved. Any unauthorized use will constitute an infringement of copyright.
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